The Places We Go

Most of the places we move through are not untouched wilderness in the romantic sense.
They are layered landscapes – shaped by glaciers, weather, animals, and people over centuries.

Alpine meadows that look wild are often grazing land.
Valleys that feel empty are someone’s workplace.
Trails that feel remote exist because generations have walked them before us.

jess & kevin

Here, we are always stepping into both ecological systems and human ones at the same time.
It’s not only about protecting fragile vegetation or leaving no physical trace, but also about moving quietly through places where life is lived – and livelihoods depend on the land.


Switzerland

The Swiss Alps are not a park. They are a landscape in constant motion – tended, grazed, and lived in.

Much of what looks like open alpine terrain is privately owned or managed as communal pasture. Farmers and alpine cooperatives maintain grazing land, and walking on established trails is widely accepted – but lingering in fields, setting up ceremonies, picnics, or prolonged presence is not the same as free access.

In some areas, I work with local contacts to formally arrange permission – and often a small, fixed compensation – to be in a particular meadow or field for a limited time. Not because the landscape is “for sale,” but because this is how respect works here: through permission and relationship, not assumption.

The places we typically choose – ridges, peaks, lakesides, valleys – are often accessible by public trail or easement, but accessibility does not remove responsibility. Even in places that feel open, the rhythm of grazing, seasonal work, and local movement matters. Cows and livestock are a common part of summer landscapes. Hikers, shepherds, and seasonal workers move through the same places we do.

Cows, in particular, have absolute right of way. Not metaphorically – literally. They will also steal your water bottle if you’re not paying attention.

Mountain huts are not historical artifacts. Many are staffed seasonally or year-round, supplied by trail, cable, or vehicle, and run by families or alpine organizations. They are part of living systems – places where people live, work, and host – not scenery layered onto a backdrop.

Cable cars and cogwheel trains were built for more than tourism. They move goods, supplies, and people who live in these valleys as well as visitors. We use the same infrastructure that sustains alpine communities; that shared use is one of the reasons timing and planning matter so much.

In Switzerland, helicopter access is rarely about avoiding trails or crowds. It is primarily used for glacier landings and high alpine terrain that cannot be reached by foot or lift at all. In those cases, the helicopter is not replacing a route – it is creating access where no route exists. Even then, movement on the glacier remains slow and deliberate: roped travel, careful pacing, constant attention to conditions. The mountain is not made easier – only reachable.

Wildlife is part of the equation too. Ibex, marmots, chamois, and many bird species share these elevations with us. While we don’t redesign an entire plan around every animal sighting, we do avoid known nesting seasons and sensitive areas whenever possible. Their presence is a reminder that we are passing through living systems, not empty stages.

For me, timing, location choice, and knowing when to step away all matter – not as logistics, but as part of respect.


The Dolomites

The Dolomites carry visible layers of human history alongside their geological drama.

In many places the mountains still bear the marks of World War I – trenches, tunnels, and relics that remind us the landscape is as much cultural text as scenic backdrop. In some valleys and along certain routes, that history is literally underfoot.

Rifugios here are frequently family-run or community-run operations with long seasonal traditions. They open and close according to weather, supply roads, and staffing, and they form part of the region’s economy and social fabric. When we eat or pause there, we’re moving through a working system, not consuming an experience detached from its context.

Some Dolomite areas are subject to seasonal restrictions designed to protect wildlife, habitat, or grazing cycles. UNESCO World Heritage recognition highlights geological and cultural significance – and with it often comes management designed to balance access and preservation.

Language matters here in small but real ways. Italian, German, and Ladin names coexist across valleys. Choosing which to use is rarely neutral – it’s part of moving respectfully through layered cultural space.

Tourism pressure is very real at several iconic viewpoints. Places like Tre Cime, Seceda, and Lago di Braies see intense seasonal use. Lago di Braies itself sits on privately owned land shared with the public under strict conditions – with access shaped through parking controls, permits, and owner rules. That a place is widely visited does not make it unowned or unmanaged.

Because of this pressure, we sometimes choose less iconic locations – or approach well-known ones at unconventional times – not to be different, but to allow the land to hold the experience without collapsing under it.

In the Dolomites, mechanical access is sometimes used not to bypass responsibility, but to avoid adding pressure to already overburdened routes or narrow bottlenecks. This does not eliminate impact; it redistributes it – shifting where and when pressure occurs. It is a trade-off, not a virtue.

Even when mechanical access is used, engagement with the land remains physical – walking ridges, navigating terrain, responding to wind and exposure. The mountain is not removed from the experience. The entry point is simply shifted.

If you’re curious how this plays out in specific locations, I’ve written about experiencing some of the most visited Dolomites places with more intention here.
Popular Places in the Dolomites & How to Experience Them Well


Iceland

Iceland feels vast and empty, but it is neither untouched nor unowned.

Much of what looks open is farmland or governed by local access norms. Farmers often tolerate tourism because it supports their livelihoods, but tolerance has limits. Gates, signs, and ropes are common – protecting both fragile ground and working land.

The moss that blankets lava fields can take decades to recover if damaged. Tire tracks and footprints can remain visible for years. What looks resilient is often geologically young and slow to heal.

Access expectations here have changed significantly in recent years as authorities and landowners respond to increasing pressure. Roads that were once open are now gated or permit-controlled. Some camping and parking areas have been closed or regulated.

Popular waterfalls, black sand beaches, and glacier tongues are often the most pressured places in the country. Some have infrastructure – platforms, paths, controlled access – and others don’t. The distinction matters.

In Iceland, helicopter access, like in Switzerland, is primarily about reaching terrain that cannot reasonably be accessed by foot or vehicle – glaciers, ice caps, volcanic plateaus, and interior highlands without established routes. In a landscape this young and fragile, concentrating access into a single controlled landing point can sometimes prevent far broader damage that would occur through off-road driving or diffuse foot traffic. This does not make helicopters “green,” but in specific contexts it can make them the least harmful option available.

Weather here is not a backdrop. It is an active force. Roads close without warning. Conditions shift in minutes. What looks accessible can become unsafe quickly.

n Iceland, the wind is the final authority. It will tell you ‘no’ before you even have the chance to ask.


What This Means

These landscapes are not stages.
They are living, working places with their own rhythms, inhabitants, and vulnerabilities.

When we move through them, we do so knowing:

We are not the first – and not the most important.
These places do not exist for us – we exist briefly within them, as visitors in systems that will continue long after we’ve gone.
Timing, location, and restraint are not limitations. They are part of respect.
And respect is not a feeling. It’s the way you carry yourself through someone else’s kitchen. It’s a practice.

This shapes where we go, when we go, and how long we stay.